波士顿：邦迪尔为季节性新英格兰美食设定了高标准

“我觉得我的晚餐是由一个老朋友煮熟的，这是一个真实的事实，但我想不出一个老朋友，我想从他吃饭的厨房。”

说我在谈到我没有偏见厨师杰森·邦德（Jason Bond）的烹饪将有些误导。我是他的热心粉丝，自从他与他合作十年以来，他一直是他的厨师。芭芭拉·林奇（Barbara Lynch）在波士顿的第9公园而且我什至都不知道如何切成葱。

从那以后，来自堪萨斯州的自称为农场男孩（他来自牧场主家庭）继续担任厨师Burdick Chocolates，最近作为厨师信标山酒店和小酒馆, serving a New England-inflected take on rustic French cuisine.

和Bondir- 一个舒适的地方，就在剑桥中央广场外的旧景点con sol去年11月开业的Digs - 他终于拥有自己的餐厅，这是一个很好的餐厅。它很小，只有大约30个座位左右 - 餐厅的前三分之一完全专门用于炉边等候区，在晚餐前，亲切的服务器在那里散发出一杯葡萄酒和开胃小菜的杯子。感觉比其他任何事情都更像是新英格兰住宿加早餐旅馆的客厅。我想不出一个舒适的空间。

坐下后，每顿饭都始于自制面包。在盘子上的四个中，9粒是最好的。尽管我们没有在棕褐色版本中发现太多的鱿鱼墨水味（尽管棕褐色的墨水味道良好（尽管深黑色漩涡贯穿其中），但它们都具有良好的质朴面包屑。

菜单格式可能是整个交易中最好的部分。Nearly every dish is offered in either appetizer or entrée-sized portions,so you can make an entire meal with a few friends grazing half portions of things like a pile of springy cavatelli with a muskywild boar and venison ragoût($14/26), and aBeef Brisket Saurbraten（$ 16/30）融化嫩嫩的梨和炖胡萝卜。

Or, if you'd prefer, you can hog an entire full-sized portion of hisChestnut Tagliatelle（$ 13/23）给自己。你想要。它搭配有培养的意大利乳清干酪和一堆芹菜和白菜上的橄榄油面包屑。

Chestnut Tagliatelle

His style has always been thoughtful, comforting, and simple, with an eye towards the classic American dishes of his youth (think chicken and noodles or beef braised with onions). Now that he's finally got a place all to himself, it's no surprise that the menu and space embody these values.

即使在看起来像是每一个chef is serving "local" cuisine, it's hard to find someone who's walking the walk as much as Bond does—impressive, given harsh New England winters. What's striking, though, is that eating your way through the menu, you don't miss anything. It's only after that you realize that you've just finished a meal entirely composed of turnips, carrots, parsnips, celery, and other such normally tedious fare;这就是他对蔬菜的非凡方式。

冬季蔬菜

人们会放弃抱怨，如果更多的厨师像邦德一样认真对待，冬季是蔬菜最糟糕的季节。

Meat and seafood are equally well-considered, and nowhere is it more apparent than in the stunning烤鸡Breast($15/28) easily as moist a bird as I've ever had. The birds are pasture raised just outside of Boston from宠物和詹的后院鸟。Bond regularly makes the trip out to Concord to slaughter the birds himself. How'sthatfor commitment? Though the accompaniments may change with the season, I pray the chicken never does.

他的风格可能是明确的（很容易看出所有这些菜来自同一厨房），但他的影响很大。来自他独特的印度人的调味Georgia Candy Roaster Pumpkin Soup（$ 9）在剃光的根蔬菜和奶油本地生产的burrata，it's clear that he's been around the block a few times.

烤鸡

The kitchen at Bondir is tiny. Bond, along with cooksLan Lam(formerly ofCraigie on Main) and丹尼尔·阿米吉（Daniel Amighi）form the entirety of the kitchen crew. Still, they take no shortcuts, offering both cheese (a single well-curated option each night), and a couple of desserts with admittedly silly names like橘梦andChocolate Enlightenment（10美元，邦德说：““好吧，我们想不出任何好的甜点名称，所以我们只是幽默的甜点”）。第一个是蛋糕搭配百里香味的酪乳冰淇淋，而后者是奶油，冷金字塔的巧克力金字塔（奇怪的是在侧面搭配欧洲防风草泥，我们不在乎）。

Tied so closely to the seasons and to Bond's own inquisitive palate, the menu here changes more often, perhaps, than any other restaurant in town, which means that the only thing that's ever the same twice is the warmth of service and care that goes into the food. It's a really great addition to the already spectacular Cambridge dining scene.

就像我之前说的，是的，我有偏见。当我说离开邦迪尔（Bondir）时，我觉得我的晚餐是由一个老朋友煮熟的，我说的是真相，但我想不出一个老朋友，我想从他的厨房吃饭。

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