见面和吃:法兰·阿德里亚(FerranAdrià)
Author's Note:Leading into this week's recipes fromFerranAdrià新发行的The Family Meal,我们很高兴能有难得的机会坐下来聊天并聊天elbulli与Ferran。
How has your life changed after the closing of elBulli?It hasn't changed at all. We've been doing pretty much the same thing we've been doing for the past few years. The difference is instead of thinking about new dishes, we are preparing a new project, theElbulli基金会for 2014, and we've had a lot of work to catch up on. Different sorts of projects from the last few months, documentaries, books, and a故事片。更少的是与以前相同。我希望明年六月我将有更多的空闲时间专注于基金会的未来并设置它。
您对舒适食品的想法是什么?您在家中为自己做什么?It depends on the moment. I don't believe that there are categorical questions and answers. For instance, right now I need a cup of coffee. And as far as what I cook at home, I don't. I'm a professional chef so I cook at the restaurant. But on the other hand, what we cook at the restaurant for family meal, that can be shared at home and cooked at home.
您对这么多厨师采用您的技术有何看法?It's the normal thing to do. I also use techniques developed by other chefs. For example, I didn't invent consomme.
您是否觉得有些餐馆和厨师过多地关注演示和经验,而不是风味和享受食物?风味是一个主观的问题。对于另一个人来说,您认为是好的和美味的东西可能不一样。如果您是一个好厨师,那么您的目标是尝试通过真正的美食创造出非常好的体验。我相信我所做的一切都很好,尽管有很多人不喜欢它。否则我不会做我的工作。您知道,这是现代现代厨师不关心风味的神话之一,有时甚至没有传统厨师都关注风味。您认为所有的披萨真的很好吗?这是一个敏感性的问题,独立于您正在做的美食。
您能为我们从未在餐馆工作过的读者解释家庭餐的概念吗?正如大多数人可以想象的那样,我们每天都必须在餐厅里吃饭,而且我们没有那么多时间或预算。很多地方尽快尽力而为,但这不是一件好事,因为如果您不照顾自己的员工餐点,您如何期望他们照顾他们的食客?
The last few years we decided to make a conscious decision to improve the meals and to look after them in the same way we look after the meals of our diners. Though that three years process we found the most appropriate kinds of recipes that everybody would enjoy, that would fit in the budget, that could be done relatively quickly so that everyone could enjoy their staff meal.
因此,尽管我们创建了生产卡和食谱的过程,并意识到:“嘿,我们有一些很棒的材料,为什么不与其他人分享呢?”必威365
该书的重点是组织,效率和准备工作,这些概念在家庭厨房中没有像在餐馆中那样发挥作用的概念。您认为这些想法如何转化为家庭烹饪?这正是问题之一。人们必须学会在厨房里井井有条。他们将节省大量时间,并能够做出适当的美食。但是,他们必须通过使用我在食谱中建议的一些步骤来组织和慢慢练习,例如冷冻库存等。
What are some of the typical conversations that took place during the family meals at elbulli?We don't talk. We spend 14 hours a day together so it's actually the opposite, it's a quiet moment. At home it's different because you don't see each other throughout the day, so it's you moment to get together and talk. Although the younger stagiers, as soon as they finish their meal, often rush outside, have a cigarette and a quick chat.
很多菜单The Family Meal拥有国际精益。谁创建了家庭餐的菜单?Most of these recipes are known by a lot of people. Together with some of the international stagiers that worked at elbulli, some of them suggested recipes and helped in making them more effective. For example, figuring out how to make guacamole for 75 people.
What are some of your favorite family meals?不一定有任何收藏夹,这就是为什么我创建了这么多菜单的原因。如果有收藏夹,我只会包括四个。两个或三个菜单非常好,非常快,制作非常简单,但这并不意味着它们是最好的。
There's something very civilized about sitting down to a meal with three courses before a service. Why do you think a multi-course meal is important?在家庭用餐中,我们要做的就是在盘子上服装,以便每个人都采取自己想要的一切,我们试图使其尽可能多样化。
And we can't make more than three different dishes, that would make it a bit complicated. When there's such a large number of people it's important to serve them on platters (family style), when you're cooking for yourself at home it's not such an issue.
What happens after service is finished for the evening? Does the staff sit down and have a drink just like they had dinner together or just clean up and go home?没有什么,每个人都渴望离开,他们已经在餐厅花费了12个小时以上。每个人都回家。
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