Making My Favorite Noodles in NYC at Fung Tu

[照片：Vicky Wasibetway88.netk]

New York is one great noodle town. Chewy hand-pulled noodle soup?我们明白了。坚果soba？干得好。Bowls of pliant naengmyun?完成并完成了。

But my favorite bowl of noodles comes from somewhere newer.From a place that, to be honest, I was skeptical of from the start.Because when a restaurant attempts to do a "modern" take on Chinese cooking, it more often than not falls on its face.但真菌tu, a year-old space on the eastern border of Chinatown, is doing something special.是什么将好面条变成了一个很棒的菜肴？当成分和技术使您停下来并想知道为什么您以前从未做过事情。

That's how I feel about most of the food that chef Jonathan Wu is cooking up, be it a bowl of smoked mussels tossed in barely pungent scallion oil or greenmarket squash salads with a "ponzu" dressing that swaps out yuzu for the citrusy bite of Sichuan胡椒粒。

在Fung tu的早期几个月中，烹饪既勤奋又发明，但通常太温和。评论家征收不冷不热的评估，餐厅因其负担得起的优秀葡萄酒清单而变得更加值得注意。但是吴一直在“适应纽约的口味”，升起了风味，调味和香料，此时，餐厅正在所有圆柱体上射击 - 一家具有前瞻性的，具有成分的中国餐厅，对传统进行了认真的态度。

没有道菜比这更真实Egg Noodles with Chinese Sausage and Chopped Clam-Black Bean Sauce($23). Fat, tender noodles are slicked with briny clams, charred sweet Chinese sausage, and seared funky garlic chives. Ginger, garlic, and scallions perfume every chopstick-ful, their crisp, pungent flavors tempered by the salty twang of dried black soy beans. The noodles are crowned with pickled onions and a drizzle of chili oil sweetened with chipotles and tomato paste. If every Chinese takeout joint served them, New York would be a better city for the trouble.

该食谱是一个简单的食谱，很容易让家庭厨师适应其厨房。重要的是成分：肉类马尼拉蛤s产生复杂的汤；精美的雪利酒代替便宜的咸米酒；Wu所说的“ Mario Batali-Level东西”充分充分利用了芳香剂。

这些都不是让中国烹饪事物不是。这是关于以预算意识的餐厅负担不起的照顾和技巧来处理数百年历史的成分和技术。这是关于当您看到一个时要认识一个好主意。吴解释说：“这道菜始于扁面条和蛤酱。”咸，发酵的黑豆是自然的下一步，是对黑豆酱中经典的蛤lam菜的引用。从那里开始，“中国香肠很适合”。大蒜花也是如此。和那个辣椒油。“我为那种辣椒油感到非常自豪。”（您会在一分钟内看到为什么。）

Here's how it's all done.

蛤

吴从龙虾广场，不是唐人街，他偏爱这些肉类的马尼拉斯。他们的干净很干净，但是吴一直保留了他在SE上烹饪的痴迷，在盐水中清除它们以驱逐任何砂砾的威胁。

On goes a snowfall of kosher salt, which gets tossed with the clams.

Then he covers them with water and lets them sit for an hour.

When time's up, he drains the clams and sweats a shallot in some oil.

然后在蛤lam中 - 大约五磅，足以容纳12份面条。

They're followed by half a bottle of Lustau amontillado sherry. Sherry's savory, saline, and nutty flavors make it the perfect substitute for Chinese rice wine, and Wu prefers to cook with bottles he likes to drink. That's totally true of the Lustau and less so of commercially available rice wine in the States, almost all of which is salted and sold as cooking wine.

"You can really taste the sherry in the end," says Wu, and the amontillado's caramelized almond notes bring incredible depth to the clams.

蛤s蒸五到七分钟。然后是时候挑选肉并手工切碎了。

同时，蛤both汤 - “这东西是金，你必须保存全部” - 将三个过滤器倒入一个固定垃圾箱中，以确保没有砂砾进入最终的酱汁。然后走进切碎的蛤。

芳香学

Talk about a "trinity" of aromatics in France and you'll find mirepoix, two parts onion to one part each carrot and celery. In Louisiana, carrots are swapped out for green pepper. And in Guangdong Province in southern China, the aromatic trinity is大蒜，葱和生姜。

这些芳香剂 - 仅此处的葱白，并将姜的量翻倍，以切成脂肪和香料 - 用手切碎，然后在食品加工机中切碎。

They'll make their way into the clam sauce, but first Wu blooms their flavors in a generous pan-ful of olive oil over low heat. Like the sherry, olive oil joins the dish because it's a higher quality product than a Chinese equivalent available in the U.S., and that builds extra layers of flavor into the final dish.

Once the aromatics smell...aromatic, in goes a fistful of black beans. These hard, wrinkled legumes are actually soy beans, and when dried, salted, and fermented, they take on a heady, gnarly, and addictively savory taste that soaks into whatever they're cooked with. Clams love black beans.

芳香剂煮熟了几分钟，直到他们失去了刺耳的咬合。然后Wu将它们完全冷却在冰箱中，然后再将其加入蛤酱。

The Noodles

For all this talk of gussied-up ingredients, there's one classic Wu can't let go: Twin Marquis pre-cooked egg noodles, the kind you can find in any Chinese grocery in the city.

“我们品尝了很多面条，但最终我们坚持了这些面条。它们是我妈妈使用的东西，它们是我为工作人员购买的家庭用餐。”它们的中性风味和柔软的质地是所有这些打孔成分的理想箔。

面条在包装前进行煮熟，因此它们只需要在热水中稍作摄入即可软化。然后，他们在冰水浴中感到震惊以停止烹饪。

吴和他的团队将七到八盎司的面条装在品脱容器中，并在上面放一些少女的中国香肠和大蒜细香葱，这是一个现成的“套件”，每当订单进出时。

Putting it All Together

所有这些准备都在服务之前完成。当订单进来时，所有面条都需要快速炒炸热炒锅。

Wu heats up the wok with a splash of oil and tosses in a kit of noodles, with the sausage and garlic chives going in first. They cook instantaneously, so Wu starts tossing the noodles to slick them with oil and imbue them with some of the wok's smokywok hei。

Then in goes the black bean sauce, which gets tossed just long enough to reduce in volume and cling to every noodle strand.

就是这样。面条插入碗中，并在上面放一些甜腌洋葱和辣椒油。

Now, all a Chinese chili oil needs is a neutral-flavored oil and some dried chilies. Wu starts with that, but adds smoky chipotles, fresh chilies, garlic, confit shallots, fermented black beans, and tomato paste. The result is a voluptuous condiment full of sweet and savory flavors—over-the-top good on its own and perfect as a finishing touch on the noodles.

在那里。Don't you want to dig in right now?