Subtle Steps Lead to the Best Tabbouleh Salad

[照片：Vickybetway88.net Wasik]

是否可以改善像Tabbouleh这样简单的菜？这就是我开始为自己的食谱工作时问自己的问题。我查找了尽可能多的出版食谱，重点是在中东食品上备受推崇的来源必威365，包括Paula Wolfert，，，，Yotam Ottolenghi， 和克劳迪娅·罗登（Claudia Roden）。我凝视着在线照片。我准备了测试批次。我发现的是，至少可以以微妙的方式进行改进。

塔布尔（Tabbouleh）的核心通常是欧芹，薄荷，煮熟的小麦，洋葱（某种形式或其他形式），番茄，柠檬和橄榄油的直接混合物。肉桂和五香粉等香料很常见。阅读几乎任何专家，他们会告诉您有关沙拉的一些关键点，因此让我们首先让这些经常避开这些折扣：

• The main ingredient in tabbouleh, as it's made in the Middle East, is parsley; everything else is secondary as far as quantity is concerned. The tendency to use lots of bulgur (or even couscous) in the United States is a deviation from the original spirit of the dish—it is not a grain salad with lots of parsley,it's a parsley salad with some grain in it。
• 清洗并干燥所有草药，以防止多余的水分进入沙拉。沙拉旋转器是您最好的选择。
• You should hand-cut the parsley and mint with a very sharp knife to prevent bruising; a food processor, while tempting for the ease it promises, will result in a beaten, battered, and pulpy salad.

用锋利的刀将欧芹和薄荷切成薄片是制作Tabbouleh的必要步骤。

What struck me, though, was despite the concept's inherent simplicity, and despite following all of the rules set out by experts, my own early batches of tabbouleh were too wet. Mind you, I wasn't aiming for a干燥Tabbouleh - 某些多汁是好的。但是，当我最初的Tabbouleh坐着时，液体池很快就开始收集在下面。从理论上讲，Tabbouleh坐着时应该变得越来越好……不要更湿又湿。只是在这里看看：

太湿了。

Maybe the American tendency to beef up the grain content in their versions was out of a desire to absorb some of that extra liquid. I didn't want to go that route though, so I came up with my own solution to dealing with, or, better yet,避免我的Tabbouleh中的水分过多。

一个警告：不要被那里的塔布尔（Tabbouleh）的一些已发表的照片所欺骗，这可以使成品沙拉看起来像一堆羽毛一样轻巧而蓬松。据我所知，一旦穿好衣服和调味，就无法保持切碎的草药通风和分开 - Tabbouleh看起来会湿润，而小草药的小块会变暗并互相粘着。我的猜测是很多精明的食物设计师在为最漂亮的图像加装之前安排了沙拉，但不是最现实的图像。

超越渗透

我从一开始就知道西红柿可能会把果汁倒入沙拉中，然后使其变汤，所以我转向了我们以前在认真饮食上使用过的技巧：我用盐将切成丁的番茄扔掉，然后将其通过过滤器将其沥干到下面的搅拌碗中（我们将节省那些沥干的果汁，在下面进行更多含量）。

The salt draws water out of the cells of the tomato through osmosis, which would inevitably happen in the salad bowl if we didn't take care of it beforehand. Some recipes call for seeding the tomatoes, but salting eliminates the need for that, since the jelly-like seed pulp drains away with the help of the salt (the seeds themselves remain, but aren't noticeable in the finished salad).

Salting the tomatoes, though, turned out not to be enough. The parsley, while much less wet than tomato, has enough of its own water content that, once seasoned with salt, it too will gradually release water into the salad and over-moisten it.

一旦用盐调味，香菜在沙拉纺纱厂中干燥得很好。

To test out if pre-salting the parsley would be helpful, I sprinkled a tablespoon of the chopped herb with salt and let it rest on a paper towel. Ten minutes later, this is what the towel looked like:

将这种效果乘以约32个（我的食谱中的欧芹总量），您会了解将其从沙拉中散发出多少液体。

Unlike the tomato, I sat the parsley in a paper towel-lined mixing bowl, which better blots up the herb's moisture, since it doesn't accumulate well enough to actually drip through a strainer like it does with the tomato; I also avoided pre-salting the mint, since it's more delicate and can oxidize quickly after being sliced.

The tabbouleh I made with pre-salted parsley that I blotted dry on paper towels came out much less wet:

Better Bulgur

Two different types of bulgur (the darker one with more bran on the grain), but both coarsely ground—neither works well with a cold soak.

Next, I turned my attention to the bulgur, which can be a confusing ingredient. Simply put, it's made from cracked durum wheat (the same kind used to make semolina) that's been parboiled and then dried. Most of the recipes I found for tabbouleh list it just as "bulgur" without any additional information, but there's more to it than that.

要知道的最重要的是，它的大小不同，从粗到细。好消息是，与许多干谷物不同，Bulgur不需要在沸水锅中煮熟。许多Tabbouleh食谱让您冲洗或将必威365Bulgur浸泡在冷水中，直到变软为止，但是他们经常无法告诉您，冷soak方法只适用于更美好的成绩。

即使坐了大约两个小时，粗大的Bulgur冲洗或用冷水冲洗或浸泡时也拒绝软化。

在我的测试中，即使在室温水中进行了几个小时后，粗糙的Bulgur也拒绝软化。在我去纽约市储备充足的市场的购物旅行中，我发现粗糙的布尔古尔比这种类繁多（例如，在整个食物上，我都发现了几个不同的粗糙选择，而不是一个很好的选择）。

这是一个问题，因为如果您找不到优质的Bulgur，那么冷垫方法将无法正常工作。同时，不管Bulgur的磨损尺寸如何，热浸都可以工作，所以这就是我在这里所要求的。

但是 - 这里是另一个微妙的调整中的另一个 - 同样，很多其他食谱都使您浸泡在水中，我意识到我的手上有更好，更美味的液体：从盐的步骤中耗尽的番茄水必威365。

番茄水为Bulgur增添了微妙的风味和味道。

我将其中的一些煮沸，然后将其倒在我的布尔古尔（Bulgur一个小时后，没关系）。Bulgur的味道与番茄水的味道并没有完全不同，但是我认为它的深度和味道确实值得，尤其是当您考虑使用番茄水比使用水更复杂时。

Just like the parsley, I blot the bulgur of any excess moisture to help keep the liquid levels under control.

完成步骤

从欧芹，西红柿和布尔古尔中除去多余的水，并重新用番茄的水补充了布尔古尔，几乎所有事情都完成了。剩下的就是将它们与一些薄荷和切碎的葱一起扔在一起（尽管细香葱，葱或洋葱工作也是如此），并用橄榄油和柠檬汁，季节和食用。

但是，在这样做之前，请考虑仅添加一丝香料。有些人喜欢五香粉，有些人使用肉豆蔻，有些则喜欢肉桂。为了使事情变得简单，我加入了少许肉桂和一点香菜种子，因为我喜欢它的味道，并认为它与Tabbouleh中的草药效果很好，但是如果您愿意，您可以省略它使用取决于您。

When my colleagueMaxbit into a heaping scoop of my tabbouleh on a piece of romaine lettuce (a common way to serve it), he thought for a moment, then said, "It's an accumulation of subtleties." That was exactly what I wanted to hear.

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