如何掌握美味的辣椒Rellenos

Whether traditional or smothered, chiles rellenos are a crowd-pleaser. [Photographs: J. Kenji López-Alt]

为什么智利·雷勒诺斯（Chiles Rellenos）在德克萨斯州和卡尔 - 墨西哥餐厅（Cal-Mex）餐厅有了事后的想法？它们总是在菜单的“其他要放在组合盘子上”部分的折叠。很可惜，因为它们一直是我最喜欢的订购的东西。我从我的父母那里得到它，父母总是订购辣椒和冷冻的玛格丽塔酒，当我们前往总部位于加利福尼亚的连锁店El Torito时，该连锁店有一次分支机构从海岸延伸到海岸。（我从来没有学会过爱冷冻的玛格丽塔酒。）智利·雷伦诺斯（Chiles Rellenos），请注意，您不仅仅是Tex-Mex的事情。它们在边界以南的真正存在，尽管在墨西哥，您可能不会像在美国那样发现它们被霓虹橙奶酪窒息而窒息。

它们也是我使用我父亲教给我的方法：打开一罐Ortega烤的整个辣椒，小心地将它们铺在纸巾上，然后将每片切成薄片的杰克奶酪，每个人都会使用我爸爸教给我的方法：打开一罐Ortega烤整个辣椒，每个人都会使用我学到的最早的菜肴之一。这些辣椒没有上衣（或烤烤味），这意味着如果您想确保熔融奶酪在炸掉时不会从开口倒出，则必须非常小心。一旦辣椒被炸了salsa ranchera, letting the spicy salsa soak into the fluffy, golden egg batter.

I'm pretty sure that the only reason we used canned chilies back then is that it wasn't possible to get good fresh Poblano peppers in New York in the early '80s. That's not a problem anymore (and certainly not an issue near my current home in the Bay Area), and both my recipe and my technique have improved since those early can-based days. I've experimented with various chili-roasting methods and dozens of batter recipes and techniques, and I've finally nailed that salsa. Here's what I've learned.

烤辣椒

任何辣椒的第一步是烤辣椒，这不仅可以增加风味并柔软，而且还可以使您脱下它们的纸皮。您可以通过多种方式解决这个问题。最好的方法是在室外的热烤架上或直接在室内燃烧器上的气火上放置开火。（我已经看到人们试图将辣椒直接烤在电动线圈燃烧器上，但是它的工作状态不佳。）如果您有火炬，那也很好。这些方法迅速呈现皮肤，使其轻松地剥离辣椒而不会过多地软化辣椒，从而使您保持更明亮的辣椒味。

但是还有其他考虑。最重要的是，我们还将用烧焦的西红柿，塞拉诺辣椒，洋葱和大蒜制作莎莎兰切拉。有了这么多蔬菜，我发现最容易将它们全部扔在衬有箔纸的烤盘上，然后将它们扔在肉鸡下，将辣椒变成辣椒，直到它们散发出来为止。

总共大约需要15分钟，这一点也准备就绪。

一旦一切都从肉鸡出来，我就将莎莎味的食材扔进食品加工机中，并将它们与一些香菜一起加工成矮胖的泥。同时，我用烤盘中的同一箔纸包裹了辣椒，这有助于他们蒸蒸日上，使皮肤更容易释放。您可以在此阶段调味莎莎酱并将其称为一天，但我喜欢将其采取灼热的步骤来真正加深其风味。

The idea of searing liquids is not common in, say, most European cuisines, but it's a crucial step in many Mexican recipes. To do it, I heat up some lard or vegetable oil in a saucepan until it's just starting to smoke. I then immediately dump all of the salsa into the pot, giving it a violent sizzle before letting it reduce a bit to further concentrate its flavor.

Some chicken stock ensures that it has the right consistency. You're looking for something between a soup and a commercial jarred salsa here. There's going to be plenty of fluffy coating on the chilies to absorb this sauce down the line.

The Filling

You can keep things really simple here and go for straight-up grated Jack cheese in the filling—I often do enjoy the simplicity and clean flavors of a straight cheese filling—but, to make it a little heartier and provide extra texture, some chorizo makes a good addition. Of course, the filling is entirely up to you. I've seen Rick Bayless make a cheese and shrimp version; I've had fillings with no cheese at all, instead using a百果馅地面猪肉的调味料，温暖的香料，葡萄干和橄榄。ChickenTinga也会味道很好。但是香肠是一个不错的，简单的加载项。

您想寻找原始的，墨西哥风格的香肠，而不是干固化的西班牙式或预煮的品种。如果找不到新鲜的香肠，也可以自己做要么just use plain ground pork. (There's plenty of other interesting stuff going on here.)

I sauté an onion in a little vegetable oil, add a big pinch of Mexican oregano, then add the pork, breaking it up with a wooden spoon and cooking it until it's heated through before adding it to my bowl of grated cheese. The hot pork helps the cheese melt just a bit, which makes the filling denser, stickier, and easier to place inside the chilies without falling apart.

There are a couple of tricky steps coming up. The first is peeling the chilies without tearing them. The skins应该come off quite easily, but sometimes they like to stick and end up tearing holes into the chilies' flesh below. Just peel carefully, be patient, and you'll be rewarded. If you have a torch (a crème brûlée torch or a larger butane or propane torch will work), you can briefly torch areas where the skin seems to be sticking to burn it off. Don't worry if you have a few stray scraps of stubborn skin—so long as you get the bulk of it, nobody will complain.*

* And if theydo抱怨，我建议您下次不要邀请他们吃晚饭。

皮肤脱落后，将一个裂缝从每个辣椒的一侧放下，然后小心地去除种子。同样，您不需要获得所有最后的种子。他们中的大多数都很好。这应该留出足够的空间来填充。您希望辣椒在这里完成时变得很丰满。

被打击和炸

智利Relleno面糊非常简单：鸡蛋和少量面粉。但是，您如何处理这些简单的成分可能会影响炸面糊的质地。将鸡蛋和面粉搅拌在一起，您会得到一些稀薄而尤其的东西。击败白色以僵硬的山峰，然后将它们轻轻地折叠成蛋黄，您会得到一些巨大的po弱。我喜欢中间的某个地方，这意味着要搅打白色，直到它们变硬，然后一次在蛋黄中搅拌，然后用一点点面粉搅拌结束。（每个鸡蛋是我使用的比例一汤匙。）

最后一个棘手的步骤是涂上辣椒并将其涂成油。如果您的辣椒很好又坚固，那么您很幸运：最简单的方法是将它们固定在茎上并将其浸入面糊中。（在此阶段，几个牙签也可以关闭接缝。）但是，大多数情况下，茎太虚弱，无法握住塞满的辣椒而不会掉下来，这意味着要进去并握住您的手凌乱。首先，将辣椒滚入一盘面粉中以使外部干燥，并帮助面糊更好。接下来，一次将它们放入一碗面糊中，然后将其旋转直至涂层，或者您可以将额外的面糊倒在顶部。

为了炸他们，我发现最容易只用我的手，尽管一个开槽的金属鱼铲也可以工作。我非常小心地将涂层的辣椒滑入一个锅中，锅里装满了大约半英寸的油，将其加热至375°F，适当的温度可以使辣椒变成金黄色，而不会在此过程中使它们太油腻或潮湿。如果顶部有任何裸露的斑点，您可以通过将少许面糊放在它们上来修补它们。在褐色的第一侧后，我小心地将它们滚动到棕色的第二侧。

也就是说，智利·雷伦诺斯（Chiles Rellenos）的性质area little greasy and soggy. Most fried foods come out crisp and light. Not these. The fried batter should be tender and fluffy, almost like a poofy omelette (which is essentially what it is). Just like Japanese tempura served in broth, the beauty of chiles rellenos is the way that soft batter soaks up the soupy salsa.

如果所有这些深燃烧和打击都使您感到压力，这是个好消息。在世界上所有油炸食品中，智利雷琳诺斯（Chiles Rellenos）保持着最好的加热。将它们放在架子上的烤箱中烘烤，甚至比从油炸锅上直接烘烤的酥脆。

在我长大的食用这些餐厅的Cal-Mex和Tex-Mex餐厅，它们会被酱汁窒息，并带有一吨明亮的橙色切奶酪。传统上，您会发现更端庄的演讲，顶部只有一点莎莎酱，奶酪都藏在里面。

That said, I'm not always in a demure mood. You want to get down and dirty with your chiles rellenos? Here's what I suggest: Completely smother them in extra stuffing mixture before baking.

为什么每次我制作智利雷琳诺斯时，我都会得到一个我雷琳诺？

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