香肠城市：Au Cheval的炸屋制成的博洛尼亚三明治

[Photographs: Blake Royer]

Whenever restaurants take lowbrow recipes and elevate them, I fall for it. Whether it's a perfectly griddled skinny diner burger or, say, masterfully crisp fries, there's an art to skillfully executing classics using great technique, yet resisting the urge to "chef-i-fy" them into something that betrays their original values. And those values are highly intact atAu Chevalin the West Loop.

Burgers and fries are obvious candidates for this treatment, as are hot dogs, milkshakes, and the like. Butbolognais not a food with fond memories for me. The kid with a bologna sandwich at school was never the cool one; his sandwich had funky mystery meat.Wikipedia advises在整个美国，博洛尼亚三明治通常在监狱，尤其是持有的牢房中送达。这不是菜肴的吉祥开始。

Which is why it is so surprising that theFried House Made Bologna Sandwichat Au Cheval is one of the messiest, most delicious sandwiches I've eaten in ages. It doesn't rely on a nostalgic food memory. It's good enough to create its own craving on the spot.

Bologna is really just a huge sausage, emulsified in the same way as a hot dog, and can be made well with quality ingredients and seasonings. Making a house bologna is a daring move, but so is crisping it up on a griddle before piling it inside a soft bun and topping it with American cheese.

面具和油炸锅是美国餐馆厨房的标志。从这个意义上讲，尽管有一些批评称其为餐馆是一个错误的称呼（但其中一个人可以试图将这个地方持续更多小时）。在Au Cheval，Flattop是国王。我很高兴添加了烤博洛尼亚的想法，以列出美味的食物。

Au Cheval

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800 West Randolph Street, Chicago, IL 60607 (map)
312-929-4580
aucheval.tumblr.com‎

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