台湾与煎饼之王的早餐

台湾煎饼是完美的午夜早餐。[照片：Max Falkowitz]

I wasn't an hour on the ground in Taipei before a pancake was shoved in my face and I was tearing into its oily belly, clumps of egg and chewy dough funneling down my throat. Nevermind that it was after midnight and I hadn't slept since leaving New York; the pancake was glorious—a flaky, laminated number with an omelette pressed against its greasy skin. A hidden squiggle of sticky-sweet brown sauce cut the fat smeared on my lips, and I fell asleep that night with Thai basil in my teeth.

旅行者经常陷入午餐或晚餐时过度陷入过度的陷阱，第二天跳过早餐以康复。在台湾这将是一个错误。因此，几个小时后，是时候开始吃早餐了。我们睡了早晨，但是您不想在拜访国王时过多地摔倒。当他每天24小时开放时，早餐后台北还有六顿饭可以吃，并考虑到台湾舒适的食物早餐的有效载荷，任何延迟都会危险地减少您的饮食时间表。

24小时的拐角早餐店总是准备好您的tiao。

The King in question was Yonghe Dou Jiang Da Wang, or the Yonghe District soy milk king. Little breakfast shops and makeshift stands are everywhere in Taipei, and like the Famous Ray's pizza joints I grew up with, many take the title of Yonghe soy milk king for themselves. But the corner shop on Section 2 of Fuxing South Road—notably not in Yonghe District at all—is one of the most respected. It seemed like a fitting place to gorge on a meal that's frustratingly hard to find outside Taiwan and its expat communities, one that speaks not just to Taiwan's incredible food, but to its politically complicated cultural history.

While Taiwanese cuisine revels in local seafood and colorful produce, many of its comfort food breakfast staples are carby and monochromatic. There are foot-long scepters of fried dough (you tiao, literally "oil stick"), fluffy steamed buns, chewy-soft griddled turnip cakes, wide bowls of hot soy milk, and pancakes—so many kinds of pancakes.* Dishes tend toward savory rather than sweet and function brilliantly, like all the best breakfasts, as a hearty way to ground the rest of your day.

*台湾煎饼疯狂只能与南亚美食相匹配罗蒂,paratha， 和馕是餐具和食物一样多。它们也不只是吃早餐或午夜小吃。福建和乔湖移民带来了popiah去台湾；这是一种薄薄的薄煎饼，然后像墨西哥卷饼一样填充并包裹在肉和蔬菜上，或者作为甜点，剃光花生脆，冰淇淋和香菜。

在非熟练的手中，这顿饭笨拙而乏味。不过，做对了，你的tiao crack裂就这样了shao bingpancakes sing with toasted sesame, and the soy milk is impeccably fresh and sweet with a touch of beany backbone.

Yonghe Dou Jiang da Wang的豆浆（杜江）的确是皇家的好；您可以通过将醋搅拌到牛奶中，使其甜美，奶油或咸味和凝结rousong, a.k.a. Chinese cotton candy made of ground, dried pork. A bowl of dou jiang needs some froth, too, and the king's cooks are especially attentive to pouring the soy milk from a couple feet high to aerate it. A bowl of hot soy milk is good on its own. It's even better when used as a Chinese dip for the carb-on-carb sandwich of shao bing filled with a fat you tiao.

As good as the soy milk is, I'd coronate Yonghe Dou Jiang Da Wang for something else—a pancake-omelet mashup made by cooking a thin layer of dough on the griddle, making an equally thin and wide omelet alongside it, and wrapping the two together around a pair of you tiao for the ultimate breakfast burrito. It only calls for a dunk in soy milk and a smear of chili paste.

Those familiar with Chinese cuisine will recognize most of these dishes. You tiao dipped in dou jiang is a classic Beijing breakfast, as is粉丝图安, the carb rocket of you tiao stuffed with pork floss and pickles and wrapped in sticky rice, which Yonghe Dou Jiang Da Wang also does so well. But the wiggly, wobbly turnip cakes hail from way farther south, where they're calledlo baak gouin Cantonese and typically ride the Lazy Suzan atyum cha(dim sum). Add in the popiah I scarfed down at lunch and we're looking at Fujian province, too—influences from all over China.

因此，在一个政治冲突，占领和动荡的循环之后，它在一个面临周期的国家。台湾是中国人（Proc仍然从字面上看的声明），但在多文化上是如此。它的中国人口来自不同的大陆地区，其中包括霍基恩和哈卡少数民族。日本的殖民烙印仍然很浓厚，现代台湾在媒体和文化中以及韩国，法国和美国都热切地喝酒。

The very definition of Taiwanese cuisine may be this eclectic vortex of reformulated influences. As Cathy Erway puts it in her cookbook,台湾的食物，“除了政治，台湾具有独特而统一的文化的想法是近年来得到支持的论文。随之而来的是，台湾本身具有统一和独特的美食本身；一种美食；从来没有没有移民和战争的浪潮，但拥有自己的遗产。”

The cuisine Erway describes is of course as diverse as the country itself, on matters of breakfast and otherwise. Instead of pancakes, countryside inns farther south served meCongeewith toppings of fresh herbs, pickled local bamboo, and crushed peanuts as toppings. And whentea seller台北的本地人埃琳娜·洛（Elena Liao）从纽约回家，她的家人制作黄油吐司和速溶咖啡。

但是，当他们第一次从机场接她时，去煎饼王的旅行经常跟随，传统和特殊待遇。早餐这种好处部署了某种磁性，这就是为什么在我在该国的最后一个早晨，我在10个午夜小吃中添加了额外的时间来打上小煎饼架的原因。7a.m.看起来很像凌晨1点，松软的片状煎饼在我的嘴唇上留下了同样快乐的油。

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