Maialino早餐评论：罗马人真的在早餐时真的吃得很好吗？

[照片：Robyn Lee]

I've heard from countless Italian food experts that Italians in Italy as a whole and Rome in particular, don't eat much for breakfast—that most people tend to make do with coffee, roll, and juice for a modest beginning to the day. I have certainly found this to be true in my Italian travels. So what explains the spate of well-regarded and reviewed Italian restaurants serving amazing breakfasts? I first encountered this when莫兰迪打开。当时的乔迪·威廉姆斯（Jody Williams）提出了一个疯狂的美味早餐菜单。安德鲁·卡梅利尼（Andrew Carmellini）和卡伦·德马斯科（Karen DeMascoLocanda Verde(can you say olive oil coffee cake and sheep's milk ricotta?).

Locanda Verde位于Greenwich酒店的一家酒店中，因此在那里提供早餐具有一定的意义。（面对现实吧，纽约厨师每天在餐馆每天做三顿饭，这不是太多认真的纽约厨师）。现在，尼克·安德勒（Nick Anderer）和他的才华横溢的船员在迈阿利诺（Maialino），这是一家时尚高端纽约酒店的另一家餐厅，格拉梅西公园（Gramercy Park），已经看到了Locanda Verde早餐，并再次提高了意大利风格的早餐赌注。他们在虚张声势吗？在我决定审查之前进行了三次早餐探访之后，我并不是这样，但是要确保，我已经把它拿下来品尝了Maialino的整个早餐菜单。它怎么样？

Insanely, ridiculously good. What I might call mindboggingly delicious.

安德勒告诉我们：“早餐菜单背后的想法是，通过给他们的经典早餐菜肴，给他们一个罗马或意大利的口音，让我们有点乐趣。”“烤鸡蛋All'Amatriciana和Cacio Pepe争夺是受经典罗马面食菜肴启发的鸡蛋菜肴，“而其他菜肴则以意大利的方向将早餐钉书钉在意大利的方向上 - “烟熏鱼是我们在烟熏鲑鱼的意大利旋转，是我们的意大利式牛肉，毛浆果和奶油奶酪。”每道菜都是巧妙的构想，并且可以完美地实现。

让我们从Jen Shelbo在内部烤制的令人惊叹的早餐糕点开始 - 釉面的羊角面包比任何人都要好科内托我在意大利有；橄榄油松饼是潮湿的，根本不重，只有足够的橄榄色风味。而且柑橘烤饼可能没有意大利人，但它们只是完美的。尽管在这之间，一个太妃糖顶的奶油蛋卷和一对可爱的小甜甜圈，但这是一个艰难的电话。

As many of you know, we do love our breakfast sandwiches at Serious Eats, so to discover three simple but perfect and originally conceived breakfast sandwiches was a serious treat—particularly the烤猪肉和炸鸡蛋on ciabatta, which I've made several return visits for. The mortadella and the egg salad sandwiches are no slouches, either.

Ricotta pancakeshave the crispy edges I dream about;榛子格兰诺拉麦片和酸奶is substantially more complicated and delicious than it may sound; and a dish of豌豆上的荷包蛋is simply spring on a plate.

There's a crispy pork terrine and baked eggs with guanciale, soft-scrambled eggs and—perhaps my favorite dish of all—satin-y see-through slices of冷烟箭鱼, pickled red onion, and robiolina. When served with toasted ciabatta, they form the pitch-perfect Italian version of a signature sandwich that Barney Greengrass would serve if they opened a branch in Rome.

I do love ordering many breakfast side dishes, and Maialino makes the breakfast side dish sojourn worthwhile: respectable potatoes, a supremely juicy pork and Pecorino sausage; and bacon that may be the best house-made stuff in the city.

在上面的幻灯片中查看更多菜肴»

Anderer and company could have played it safe with traditional Italian breakfast items, but thankfully, they didn't.Maialino的早餐菜单经过深思熟虑，富有想象力的执行和惊人的原创。I don't know anything on it could be found on breakfast menus in Italy, but with food this good authenticity isn't the point. Serious deliciousness is. If the Italians want to find out how they could do breakfast in the spirit of their extraordinary culinary traditions, they need look no further than the morning menus at restaurants like Maialino andLocanda Verde。

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