Maison Kayser的早餐：为了获得最佳效果，请保持靠近面包

[Photographs: Robyn Lee]

我第一次爱上了Eric Kayser二十多年前，巴黎的面包和糕点在巴黎，当时我相信他只有一个珠宝盒。当时的凯瑟（Kayser）是男孩奇迹般的组合面包面包师和糕点制造商，直到今天，这是一个不寻常的双倍。那周我每天的访问中，我最生动的口味记忆是惊人的好面包以及潮湿，轻巧且风味的金融家。

二十年后的现在，凯耶（Kayser）建造了一个面包和糕点帝国，在巴黎和世界各地有80个地点（即使在新加坡，也有一个明确的迹象表明，食品供应商或厨师 - 餐馆都在帝国建设中，请参阅；请参阅；请参阅；Pizzeria Mozza). After a false start in Los Angeles a few years ago (the wrong partners Kayser says—it's always the wrong partners, isn't it?), he has come to America with a vengeance. His new large, bright, and cheery initial location on the Upper East Side is open morning, noon and night, and two more locations are set to open next year in the Flatiron District and midtown.

您能从国际连锁店获得真正的法国面包吗？我们的朋友大卫·勒博维茨（David Lebovitz）sure thinks so:

我非常喜欢他的痛苦饮食谷物。而且他的法式面包非常好，与其他质量一直在变化的地方不同。我知道复制烘焙物品并使其保持稳定是多么困难（他的所有面包都在巴黎的每个面包店里烘烤，而不是像其他一些地方一样在中央小卖部）。他的金融家非常出色，他制作了我有过的一些最好的巧克力饼干，甚至比美国许多人都更好，这在法国很少见。

我们已经在我们的第一眼, which was promising indeed, andAndrew Coe给了一些面包他一次过。有三个菜单：早餐，午餐和晚餐以及糕点，我们决定系统地在整个菜单上吃饭，从早餐开始。我们下达了大批杂物，六个饥饿的认真食客，寻找完美的煎蛋，羊角面包，咖啡，以及一个带黄油的简单tartine。

我们用订单使友好的服务器感到震惊：“我们可以将菜单的整个左侧（除了两个例外，我们认为是重复的）吗？跑步（或我应该说吃）。

烟熏三文鱼tartine。

凯瑟（Kayser）和他的同伙明智地使用他的非凡面包（特别是他的面包tourte de meule, a large loaf made mostly from sourdough) as the foundation for most of the breakfast menu. Sometimes this works brilliantly, like when they toast a piece of bread and layer it with烟熏三文鱼（$ 14）在奶油奶油的schmear上，贴在一个完美的煮熟，在上面煮熟的阳光旁足够流鼻涕，然后用炸刺山柑和剃光的洋葱在整个东西上点缀整个东西。ighifique！

Other tartines were not so magnificent. TheEgg & Sausage($12), the closest thing on the menu to an American breakfast sandwich, had way too many things going on: sweet sliced sausage, overcooked scrambled egg, caramelized onions, and basil pesto, all cloaked by fontina cheese that turned leathery from overcooking. Likewise overcooked scrambled eggs also top theEgg & Asparagus（$ 13）和鸡蛋和朝鲜蓟($11), and the other toppings don't stand a chance against them.

但是一个甜美的tartine上面Nutella($9), bright strawberry preserves, and sliced strawberries was the perfect child's breakfast in adult form. We felt a little guilty liking it so much, but not enough to keep us from cleaning our plates.

面包布丁法式吐司($12) is deftly executed; the bread is crunchy and brown on the outside and tender inside, not mushy or soggy. It's only mildly sweet, too, not a sugar bomb at all. The fresh fruit and cream it was topped with was an unusual and lovely touch.

The baked egg dishes, called cocottes, were also hit and miss. The egg in our烟熏三文鱼Cocotte（14美元）很嫩，即使不是特别的奶油，它的特色与tartine相同。但是我们的巴黎火腿（$ 13）表现不佳，鸡蛋过度煮过的鸡蛋（包括蛋黄的粉笔球）和与过度融化的Gruyere一起进行的面包馅料。

每日面包篮。

Since this is Eric Kayser we're talking about, we also ordered theViennoiserie（糕点）篮子和Daily Breadbaskets ($10 each). The bread basket is, as you would expect, extremely serious, a mix of baguette and slices of larger loaves, and would make a great breakfast on its own. It comes in a perfect little burlap bag with some butter and preserves.

Viennoiserie不太成功。带有一个奶油蛋卷，一个羊角面包和一个痛苦的chocolat，拿着这三种物品的粗麻布袋应该更饱满。$ 10是这些糕点组合的成本；我们不应该为粗麻布获得一些附加值吗？一个“篮子”暗示了我们在面包混合物中喜欢的丰度。我们本来会在这种感觉中产生同样的感觉。至于糕点本身，奶油蛋卷像面包一样柔软而丰富，而不是蛋糕。羊角面包和痛苦的巧克力可能会变得更加黄油，无论是片状质地和风味。

关于halfway through our meal, something clicked, and we got a much better sense of what Maison Kayser is trying to be. This isn't a space designed to be the perfect French cafe. It's really part of an international machine, that like Le Pain Quotidien or Chipotle, is meant to be replicated again and again. The aim isn't perfection in all things; it's tasty, crowd-pleasing food.

Viennoiserie篮子。

有时，这非常非常好。我们已经取样了六次的面包一直很棒。奶油蛋卷确实可以自己是早餐。熏制的鲑鱼和花生酱tart是很棒的。这些东西可以而且应该是您的早餐。

The less successful dishes feel like what a French person thinks Americans want to eat for breakfast. So there's sausage and egg,lotsof egg, and melted cheese where there doesn't need to be. The tartine portions are enormous, really best shared, and are so piled with ingredients that each require their own cooking that the dish as whole just can't come together. With more restraint, fewer components, and perhaps a more French attitude, they could be much improved.

埃里克·凯瑟（Eric Kayser）是一位出色的面包师，也是一个出色的饼干，因此毫无疑问，如果您明智地订购，您就可以吃一半的法国人，一半的美国人和所有凯瑟（All All Kayser）。菜单上的错过感觉就像是因为凯耶（Kayser）感觉到了美国早餐食品景观。他是一个雄心勃勃的家伙，也是一个伟大的才华横溢的人，所以我们的猜测是，在未来几个月中，他将在早餐上更加坚定，更加一致。希望他令人难以置信的激进扩张计划他有时间在开发熟食的菜肴上。

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